Tailgate struts for xc40 2019
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Bootcamper
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Thu Apr 02, 2020 2:27 pm
Post by Stuber » Fri Feb 09, 2024 4:50 pm
My struts have been making a grinding noise but over the last few months I've dripped some oil in, on about six occasions. I'm happy to report that the noise has now gone. I've upgraded the seal at the top which is detailed elsewhere on this forum. The mechanics of the strut are two springs that rotate within each other to shorten/lengthen. So there is metal to metal contact and a bit of lubrication solves a lot of problems in many facets of life.
Stuber
Could you say whereabouts you have been dripping the oil as I've tried a few different areas but with little success so far.
My struts have been making a grinding noise but over the last few months I've dripped some oil in, on about six occasions. I'm happy to report that the noise has now gone. I've upgraded the seal at the top which is detailed elsewhere on this forum. The mechanics of the strut are two springs that rotate within each other to shorten/lengthen. So there is metal to metal contact and a bit of lubrication solves a lot of problems in many facets of life.
Stuber
Could you say whereabouts you have been dripping the oil as I've tried a few different areas but with little success so far.
If you open the boot by a small amount, say 6 inches and then stop it there by putting your hand on it. Look from the side and you'll see a seal between the two tubes. Put oil above the seal to allow it to run in. Not much at a time. Leave boot for 15mins then operate as normal . Won't be an instant fix but does work
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DADDY KOOL
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2021 9:07 pm
Will give my prototype cure for this problem a test this weekend it's looking like it will cure the problem!!!
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DADDY KOOL
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2021 9:07 pm
Ok have fitted my strut water ingress preventors! So this is what to do! Purchase 2 x1/4" pvc pipe straight connectors from any merchants , and one length of 1/4" pipe . If you have a friendly plumber he will probably give you a pipe offcut!
Using pvc solvent cement ,glue the straight connector onto the pipe! If you twist the pipe as soon as you put them together you will ensure glue has sealed it watertight! The total length of pipe and fitting needs to be 90mm. Now slice this in half buy cutting down centre with hacksaw blade or simular thin blade! So you now have two halves! You need to do this to install it on the strut , without removing the strut from the car ! If you now offer this to the uppermost part of the strut with the widest part facing down you will see that it fits perfectly! Next spray the two halves with gloss black paint! Inside and out! When dry offer this up to the top of the strut and tape it together with masking tape , just tight enough to allow it to slide firmly. If you now operate the tailgate the wider part of the strut will move it into its resting place ! Mark or measure the distance left at the top of the strut so you know where to finally install it ! Now smear inside of the pipe section only! With clear silicone sealant . And immediately apply the two halves together in the position you previously marked you can put a piece of masking tape around if you like , but mine adhered nicely ! You can operate the tailgate again to make sure it is in place correctly! The next day you can apply a little extra silicone to the top rim and the cut slot ! And you now should have the job done ! This may seem difficult but it is a doddle to do and cheap and efficient! My car is 2020 model!
Using pvc solvent cement ,glue the straight connector onto the pipe! If you twist the pipe as soon as you put them together you will ensure glue has sealed it watertight! The total length of pipe and fitting needs to be 90mm. Now slice this in half buy cutting down centre with hacksaw blade or simular thin blade! So you now have two halves! You need to do this to install it on the strut , without removing the strut from the car ! If you now offer this to the uppermost part of the strut with the widest part facing down you will see that it fits perfectly! Next spray the two halves with gloss black paint! Inside and out! When dry offer this up to the top of the strut and tape it together with masking tape , just tight enough to allow it to slide firmly. If you now operate the tailgate the wider part of the strut will move it into its resting place ! Mark or measure the distance left at the top of the strut so you know where to finally install it ! Now smear inside of the pipe section only! With clear silicone sealant . And immediately apply the two halves together in the position you previously marked you can put a piece of masking tape around if you like , but mine adhered nicely ! You can operate the tailgate again to make sure it is in place correctly! The next day you can apply a little extra silicone to the top rim and the cut slot ! And you now should have the job done ! This may seem difficult but it is a doddle to do and cheap and efficient! My car is 2020 model!
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jonathan66
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2023 4:30 pm
Hi DaddyKool,
that is a good solution, well done for thinking it out.
I improved on my original by using solvent weld plumbing pipe as you have. You say 1/4" pipe but actually I think you have used 32 mm nominal diameter pipe which is 1 1/4" not 1/4" ? I used the next size up solvent weld pipe for the outer sleeve (1 1/2 = 40mm nominal) and used packing under the sleeve - old vinyl flooring wrapped around. However I disconnected the lower end of the strut and slid the tube up the strut which means that the cover does not need to be cut into two lengthways so it will look better and be more robust. The lower end of strut is very easy to remove, you just need a long piece of wood to support the tailgate first - pushing the tailgate up as far as it will go. Then pull out the retainer spring clip just enough to pull off the strut. To replace the strut it just pushes back on over the pin. If I was doing this again, then I would try to use the 1 1/4 pipe and connector as you have, but I would want to push the connector up over the strut. I would still need to cut the pipe lengthways (but not the connecctor) because the pipe will not slide over the strut. However, I think that the connector may not go over the strut dues to the "position limit guide" which stops you pushing pipe into the connector too far. So I might then have to put a chisel or other tool into the connector to remove that guide before the connector will slide up over the strut. I would buy all parts in black so that no painting is required. Photos and diagram of my current version are attached. Compete with the piece of cord which is a drip guide to stop water running back up the strut when the boot is opened after rain. the last photo is paper which I put in and then closed the boot. I pulled out the paper easily - this was to check that there was still clearance around the strut and that no undue pressure has been put on the strut. I had paper in a couple of different ways in order to check clearance around the whole of the strut circumference.
that is a good solution, well done for thinking it out.
I improved on my original by using solvent weld plumbing pipe as you have. You say 1/4" pipe but actually I think you have used 32 mm nominal diameter pipe which is 1 1/4" not 1/4" ? I used the next size up solvent weld pipe for the outer sleeve (1 1/2 = 40mm nominal) and used packing under the sleeve - old vinyl flooring wrapped around. However I disconnected the lower end of the strut and slid the tube up the strut which means that the cover does not need to be cut into two lengthways so it will look better and be more robust. The lower end of strut is very easy to remove, you just need a long piece of wood to support the tailgate first - pushing the tailgate up as far as it will go. Then pull out the retainer spring clip just enough to pull off the strut. To replace the strut it just pushes back on over the pin. If I was doing this again, then I would try to use the 1 1/4 pipe and connector as you have, but I would want to push the connector up over the strut. I would still need to cut the pipe lengthways (but not the connecctor) because the pipe will not slide over the strut. However, I think that the connector may not go over the strut dues to the "position limit guide" which stops you pushing pipe into the connector too far. So I might then have to put a chisel or other tool into the connector to remove that guide before the connector will slide up over the strut. I would buy all parts in black so that no painting is required. Photos and diagram of my current version are attached. Compete with the piece of cord which is a drip guide to stop water running back up the strut when the boot is opened after rain. the last photo is paper which I put in and then closed the boot. I pulled out the paper easily - this was to check that there was still clearance around the strut and that no undue pressure has been put on the strut. I had paper in a couple of different ways in order to check clearance around the whole of the strut circumference.
XC40 Inscription MY2020 D4 AWD
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DADDY KOOL
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2021 9:07 pm
Yes I meant one inch and a quarter! it cost me a fiver for the two sides and 20 mins work per side ,so no brainer against £500 unless you are loaded with dosh!
