Stone chip on bonnet

[Ian333]

Hi All,

Washing my car today and noticed a scratch on the bonnet which I guess must have been a stone. Pretty gutted but inevitable eventually I guess, just a shame its after 2 months

It's difficult to get a decent picture as its (stone) black and like a mirror now but I've tried and my finger is there to give an indication of size.

I've tried polishing it out but not used anything harsher as it has been paint protected at the dealers when new.

Anyone any ideas on how to rectify it?

[Boxybutgood]

Hi Ian. Based on years of experience I suspect the best you are likely to achieve on a DIY basis is one of those coloured polishes that mask the worst of it. Then some brain training to avoid looking at it... The cheapest professional solution that I have found in the past is ChipEx. Many years ago I had several years of gravel rash removed from the bonnet of a Boxster at a fraction of the cost of any other options. The system is very good, but of course the skill of your local operative is of equal importance . If it's any consolation I have found the bluff-fronted SUV type of car much less prone to this issue than other lower cars so hopefully a one-off.

[drjamesr]

Just had the same on the bonnet leaving two 'craters' where paint was removed down to undercoat.

A professional will get a very good result using a power buffing pad but I think it is possible to get an acceptable result with diy. Unlike the many previous touch up kits I have used, the paint and lacquer are both water based. This made the job much easier I found.

I bought the Volvo touch up kit from my dealer, about £8, with colour and lacquer in a small tube each with the usual application brush. It comes with excellent instructions using fairly obvious pictograms.

As per instructions, do NOT shake the paint tubes! Clean the area and apply the colour paint. The brush is finer than usual which helps, plus the paint doesn't dry rapidly. The paint has to be applied at a temperature over 5C and then left to dry for the time specified in the instructions, 10-20 mins from memory.

I found it does not matter if the colour coat goes on in a blob or runs beyond the repair area, because when left to dry as per the instructions, the cap of the paint tube has a gauze that you wet under a tap and then use to dab the repair. The paint sets enough not to be washed off but not enough to prevent the damp gauze levelling things off.

Several coats of colour can be applied I found which helps with the real problem, building up the repair towards (but not completely perfect) level with the surrounding, so that it doesn't show too badly.

Leave to dry and then the question is whether to apply the clear coat. With solvent paints I never did because it always proved impossible to get a good finish and I settled for the duller colour un-glossed finish which you soon don’t notice.

The water based clear coat is much easier to use. Put as little on as you possibly can. It probably won’t be flat but leave it.

After 48 hours the repair can be polished with a car wax. I used Autoglym rather than risk the usual fine abrasive versions for use on solvent paint repairs, that will I'm sure do more damage than good. But before this I found that careful application of a finger nail (mine are never hard enough to scratch) will remove any overpaint and help get a better finish where it's needed.

It won't be perfect but the colour match was good and once the angst has dissipated the repair will be forgotten.

Good luck!

[Ian333]

Thanks drjamesr for your comprehensive reply... I’ll give it a go as I’ve already got the Volvo touch up set.

Wish me luck!!